@rek@fleeky it would be amazing to have a site or YouTube channel that very rigorously tested knots, eg, how many pounds of load in which directions causes failure with which types of line…
@rek@avi@fleeky There is the concept of the efficiency of a knot — the proportion of the strength of the knot compared to the strength of the rope it's made out of. That only eliminates some of the conditions, of course, but does at least control for some of them.
@avi too many factors :P... rope material, conditions(wet, cold), diameter. I did stumble on this pdf, I'm not done 'wading' through it tho:
http://paci.com.au/downloads_public/knots/Knot-Testing_Thomas-Evans_2016.pdf (800kb)
@fleeky